Winegirl's Wine Index: Low Tech Wines

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	Type		Rating	Tasting Notes		Instructions
1	Red		Very Good	Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie 1997   $38 Monsieur Rostaing’s fancy-dancey "auto-pigeantes" (mechanized vats that rotate during fermentation) nearly cost him his low-tech credentials. But Rostaing never filters his wines unless his chemical tests detect active bacteria. The result is a ruby-purple colored, delicious Syrah full of black fruit flavors and violet aromas.		Drink now or hold, but this wine’s velvet-soft tannins say, don’t wait much past 2003
2	White		Very Good	Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc Reserve 1996   $32 The King of Napa Wine suffered a flash of brilliance when he renamed this rich, distinctly Californian sauvingon blanc, "Fume Blanc." No one, as a result, will expect the flinty, mineral notes that characterize most versions of this varietal. Instead, this wine is bold, exotic, and filled with minty and green-tea flavors. The grapes come from Mondavi’s famed To Kalon site; the wine is unfiltered.		Drink extra-chilled now.
3	White		Okay	Topolos Sauvignon Blanc Harrison Vineyard 1999   $12 This organic winery in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley is putting out some tasty, great-value Sauvingon Blancs. The 1999 shows some sweetness without compromising on the varietal’s keynote citrus and grassy flavors. Comparatively full-bodied, but not cloying, this wine will knock your socks off with some soft goat cheese and Gravenstein apples.		Drink now.
4	White		Okay/good	Bonny Doon Pacific Rim Riesling nonvintage   $8 Widely considered to be riding the lead horse in the cavalry of Californian "Rhone Rangers," Bonny Doon’s Randall Graham, a young ex-hippie from a wealthy family, is dedicated to curing the wine world of its addiction to Cabernet and Chardonnay. The attractive price of his Riesling is almost as appealing as the wine’s ripe, fruity, but not-too-sweet mouthfeel. No fining or filtration here!		Drink now.
5.	Red		Okay	Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne 1997   $60  Don’t get me wrong: I’m a Chapoutier groupie. But this 1997, 100% syrah single-vineyard cuvee from the upstart, neo-traditionalist vigneron falls flat. For this kind of money, a top-quality Rhone should show more character. Well-colored, but accessible--no, too accessible. Its tannins stop short of mouth-puckering, but the light cherry fruit just can’t hold up.		Drink now, and here’s to hoping I bought a cooked bottle.